In article <326e67fd-76e9-4896-b0a9-a750b995cc33@d27g2000prf.googlegroups.com>, agedest <berdid@wmconnect.com> wrote: > >I've used the Grigri only once to belay another climber, so she would >know she would not fall for my failing to hold her. I found that it >was very clumsy for ordinary belaying, and later used her ATC >instead. But there is another limitation it has. She had wanted to >come down faster. When I pulled the handle back some more, she went >faster than she was ready for, her foot stubbed on a ledge, and she >came real close to doing a back-flip. Lesson: there is very little >range between easing down and zinging down. If you panic and squeeze >the handle harder, somebody dumps. I always keep my other hand on the >rope as if it were an ATC, to make sure I am not relying only on the >handle. And it won't just slow down any better, it snatches and you >bounce on the rope. If you can't handle safely lowering a partner with a Gri-Gri I'm not entirely sure you should be trying to teach "Lessons" to others. -- Thor Lancelot Simon tls@rek.tjls.com "The inconsistency is startling, though admittedly, if consistency is to be abandoned or transcended, there is no problem." - Noam Chomsky

Howdy, > If you want to learn to climb, and have sense enough at least to do it > with a rope but will not be doing it with a proper partner, my > experience may be useful. I'm glad you're willing to share your experiences. However, trying to learn any kind of life-threatening sport/hobby by yourself is not the smartest move. Seeking out an experienced instructor who will teach you good habits and keep you out of trouble should be the preferred way to go. > I've used the Grigri only once to belay another climber, so she would > know she would not fall for my failing to hold her. I found that it > was very clumsy for ordinary belaying, and later used her ATC > instead. Belaying with a Grigri should be just as easy to use as any other belay device. If it's not, then something is wrong in your belaying technique. > Lesson: there is very little > range between easing down and zinging down. If you panic and squeeze > the handle harder, somebody dumps. I always keep my other hand on the > rope as if it were an ATC, to make sure I am not relying only on the > handle. And it won't just slow down any better, it snatches and you > bounce on the rope. Lowering someone smoothly on a Grigri takes practice, but once you've learned how it can be smooth as silk. There are some tricks that add to your control, such as having the lever hand facing palm-down and putting your thumb in the roll of the metal on the side of the device. > also mostly around a corner, somehow I flipped over, and swung all the > way under the anchors upside-down, desperately grabbing the rope, legs > splayed wide trying to not fall out of the harness, remembering also > that a guy had just said that a Grigri will free-spool if you go > inverted. Not that time--thank God! And my habits did have me pulled > tight enough to not smash my head or back on the ground on the way > by. A couple things: if your harness is fitted properly (waist belt ABOVE your hips and very tight) then there is no chance of falling out of your harness. If you're wearing your harness like most of us wear our pants (on the sides of our hips and loose enough to be comfortable) then there is a good chance you'll come out of it if you get turned upside down. Secondly, wear a helmet. I hear people all the time say that helmets are only to protect your head from falling rocks. The fact is they serve TWO purposes, the second being to keep your head from bashing against the wall. > SO...I'm still here, to tell you: climbing alone has many advantages, > yes; but the disadvantages and hazards of being alone are very real. I'm sorry, but what are the advantages of climbing alone?!? You don't have to coordinate with someone else when you want to go climb? No one to mooch off your beef jerky? Come on! There are lots of reasons NOT to climb alone as you're finding out. Good luck with your climbing. I hope you'll find someone to help you learn the good habits of climbing. Who knows, you might just like climbing with a partner! Allen

> > I've used the Grigri only once to belay another climber, so she would > know she would not fall for my failing to hold her. I found that it > was very clumsy for ordinary belaying, and later used her ATC > instead. But there is another limitation it has. She had wanted to > come down faster. When I pulled the handle back some more, she went > faster than she was ready for, her foot stubbed on a ledge, and she > came real close to doing a back-flip. Lesson: there is very little > range between easing down and zinging down. If you panic and squeeze > the handle harder, somebody dumps. I always keep my other hand on the > rope as if it were an ATC, to make sure I am not relying only on the > handle. And it won't just slow down any better, it snatches and you > bounce on the rope. > Using the Grigri is basically just like using any tube or plate type belay device. The only thing the handle should be used for is to release the automatic locking cam. Controlling the rate of descent (or lowering) should be done with the brake hand, just like using an ATC. The handle should not be used to control the rate of descent.