Group: rec.climbing


Subject: Compressor on Cerro Torre
From: Lord Slime
Date: 9/11/2007 9:13:16 AM
"James" <jimmy@triode.net.au> wrote in message > In the Bridwell reference you supplied, he marvelled at the compressor > high up on the wall and reckoned the effort it must have taken to get > it up there to "Hannibal crossing the Alps". > > The 1971 reference suggests the compressor weighed 150 pounds. > I'm just guessing, but it seems likely it was carried up in pieces and then assembled high on the mountain. If it's like most compressors, the tank, motor and flywheel individually would make reasonable loads, and wouldn't be too difficult to re-assemble. - Lord Slime

Subject: Compressor on Cerro Torre
From: eugene@cse.ucsc.edu (Eugene Miya)
Date: 9/11/2007 1:42:30 PM
In article <1189535672.268586.208090@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, Brian in SLC <beadysee@yahoo.com> wrote: >Yeah. Seem to recall that I've seen the hunk of it that Bridwell >snagged. Photos on a Summit or Mountain cover. >They started drilling so low on the route, must have been a real bear >to get it up higher. Probably like aid climbing, though, once you >start that rig up, hard to not drill and raise, drill and raise, even >if features were nearby enough that would have precluded the bolts. Hole placement tended to be comparatively short if I remember, maybe it was Dickenson's photo. >Bolts look a lot like pitons. Apparently still pretty robust. Say what? Pins need cracks (even rurps). Bolt hangers have to have a hole for a biner which might arguably look like part of a pin, bolts have to either expand or contract to stay in the hole. I still have a pin rack. --

Subject: Compressor on Cerro Torre
From: clint@Stanford.EDU (Clint Cummins)
Date: 9/12/2007 1:04:59 AM
>On Sep 11, 3:42 pm, eug...@cse.ucsc.edu (Eugene Miya) wrote: >> Say what? >> Pins need cracks (even rurps). >> Bolt hangers have to have a hole for a biner which might arguably look >> like part of a pin, bolts have to either expand or contract to stay in >> the hole. Brian in SLC <beadysee@yahoo.com> wrote: >Ever heard of a drilled angle? > >They look like pins to me. Soft iron pitons probaby custom made for >short holes. See the pic of Steve on the bolt traverse in Bridwell's >AAJ article I referenced above. Coincides with some rumors of a >feller who mighta crowbarred out a few... These are old (Salewa?) one piece combination bolt/hangers which look like a Lost Arrow driven straight into the rock.

Subject: Compressor on Cerro Torre
From: eugene@cse.ucsc.edu (Eugene Miya)
Date: 9/12/2007 2:11:27 PM
In article <1189545083.900124.109860@b32g2000prf.googlegroups.com>, Brian in SLC <beadysee@yahoo.com> wrote: >On Sep 11, 3:42 pm, eug...@cse.ucsc.edu (Eugene Miya) wrote: >> Say what? >> Pins need cracks (even rurps). >> Bolt hangers have to have a hole for a biner which might arguably look >> like part of a pin, bolts have to either expand or contract to stay in >> the hole. > >Ever heard of a drilled angle? I have angles in my pin rack, blades, Lost arrows (long and short, 2 long dongs for cleaning (1 inherited)), and a bong or 2. >They look like pins to me. Soft iron pitons probaby custom made for >short holes. See the pic of Steve on the bolt traverse in Bridwell's >AAJ article I referenced above. >Coincides with some rumors of a >feller who mighta crowbarred out a few... You mean Robbins and Lauria on mashies? --

Subject: Compressor on Cerro Torre
From: eugene@cse.ucsc.edu (Eugene Miya)
Date: 9/12/2007 4:05:29 PM
In article <1189634014.588906.143420@g4g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, Brian in SLC <beadysee@yahoo.com> wrote: >On Sep 12, 4:11 pm, eug...@cse.ucsc.edu (Eugene Miya) wrote: >> I have angles in my pin rack, blades, Lost arrows (long and short, 2 > >Any that will fit in a drilled hole? There ya go... Oh probably the small angles. Some natural holes exist, long ago maybe Fitschen's Folly which had a hole you just dropped a small angle inside for pro w/o hammering. And I think I've slotting the long dong behind flakes for pro like that. >Josh was scheduled to teach a clinic at the AAC meeting in Bend last Bend? Well I was just flying N of there, got as far S as Condon on Sunday. Peter didn't want to deal w/ the density-altitude where Bend was (got email from Glen Baker out of the blue, too, for the first time in a few years). I could have pressed harder to fly to Bend had I known and seen Smith from the air. --

Subject: Compressor on Cerro Torre
From: Lord Slime
Date: 9/13/2007 10:42:12 AM
"Brian in SLC" <beadysee@yahoo.com> wrote in message > On Sep 12, 4:11 pm, eug...@cse.ucsc.edu (Eugene Miya) wrote: > > I have angles in my pin rack, blades, Lost arrows (long and short, 2 > > Any that will fit in a drilled hole? There ya go... Geez Brian! You found a topic of which Eugene doesn't know-it-all. Take this email to your local watering hole for a free margarita. - Lord Slime