Sammy bin Snoozin <SammyBinSnoozin@REyahooMOVE.com> wrote > This is for a home in Catawba County, North Carolina.... > We have had a roto-rooter dude run his camera up a terra cotta drain > pipe and saw that there is a break about 15-ft inside the concrete > basement floor from the wall. They quoted $2400 to jack hammer the > slab (inside a basement) and replace the pipe. That does not include > pouring new concrete and finishing the floor. > We have called a few other plumbers but one couldn't do it and > the others either won't quote or won't even show up to look at it. > Question is.... I heard that there was a way to insert a PVC pipe or tube > inside just smaller than the original pipe which would allow normal drainage. Yes, thats being done progressively thru my part of town, in the main sewer line. > It would not seal against the wall and not seal the hole, but > roots (the current problem) would not penetrate the PVC. Its quite feasible to put plastic fittings on the ends of the inserted pipe so you get what is a fully sealed system again. Thats what they do with the main sewer line, they replace each of the points where the sewer line from the houses meets the main sewer line. Surprisingly elegant system. > It would be slightly smaller diameter, but should be plenty big for what > the drain pipe now carries (no washer or other high flow appliances, etc.) And the plastic has a better flow than the pipe it replaces anyway. > Anyway.... long story.... but ... > 1 - Is $2400 reasonable? > 2 - Is PVC insert an alternative? cheaper? Yep. > 3 - Is there a general rule of thumb for when to repair an old line > vs installing a new one? (This house has been added on and the > new line would be a more direct route that the old one(s).) Sure, but its going to cost quite a bit more to do that.

Sammy bin Snoozin <SammyBinSnoozin@REyahooMOVE.com> wrote: > This is for a home in Catawba County, North Carolina.... > > We have had a roto-rooter dude run his camera up a terra cotta drain pipe > and saw that there is a break about 15-ft inside the concrete basement > floor from the wall. They quoted $2400 to jack hammer the slab (inside a > basement) You can rent jack hammers, you know? > and replace the pipe. That does not include pouring new > concrete and finishing the floor. If the break is incased in concrete..... they simpliy use whatever means to fish out the broken pieces to let the concrete act as the pipe. In fact it'd be very difficult to break the concrete away from the pipe to allow a better connection. I haven't done this solution, but i've heard of it being done (not on the internet). If it's burried under the slab and collapsed then i don't know.... Seems like as long as you knew where the break was, seems like that'd be easy enough for a do it yourself the same way the plumbers planned. At least it's in the basement instead of the living room :-/ You might consider adding something like a sink or washing machine connection at the same time. > We have called a few other plumbers but one couldn't do it and the others > either won't quote or won't even show up to look at it. > > Question is.... I heard that there was a way to insert a PVC pipe or tube > inside just smaller than the original pipe which would allow normal > drainage. It would not seal against the wall and not seal the hole, but > roots (the current problem) would not penetrate the PVC. If you've got roots growing 15 foot under your house you need to cut down that tree. Otherwise the roots will attack most any fix you do. > It would be slightly smaller diameter, but should be plenty big for what > the drain pipe now carries (no washer or other high flow appliances, etc.) Tons of more better info on google then you'd likely get from us noobs :-/ http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=%22sewer+line%22+repair&btnG=Google +Search > Anyway.... long story.... but ... > > 1 - Is $2400 reasonable? Sounds too high to me, but plumbers are always too high, which is what keeps places like Home Depot in business. > 2 - Is PVC insert an alternative? cheaper? 3 - > Is there a general rule of thumb for when to repair an old line vs > installing a new one? (This house has been added on and the new line > would be a more direct route that the old one(s).) That'd be a judgement call -- How much work and $$ it is doing the extra work VS how questionable it looks and how much work i'd be doing it all over again :-/ > Thanks! > > Sam

>>We have had a roto-rooter dude run his camera up a terra cotta drain pipe >>and saw that there is a break about 15-ft inside the concrete basement >>floor from the wall. They quoted $2400 to jack hammer the slab (inside a >>basement) and replace the pipe. That does not include pouring new >>concrete and finishing the floor.<< A friend and I did this job. He rented an electric jack hammer for the day..under a hundred bucks...we made a few cuts (angle grinder..cheap $ 15.00 diamond blade )along the floor as a guide, then broke out the floor along the lines.. The breaking out/It took about two hours and this was to re-lay about 25-30 feet of pipe replacing old cast iron with black ABS. How much pipe/concrete cuts to replace it all? Since its terracotta/clay pipe, it isnt s sewer drain so In your case you're only looking at a small area where the break is..perhaps a hole 2-3 ft in diameter. if you just then dig down the foot or two.. it may just be laid in sand. Then you clean out the broken pieces and replace with new tile or black ABS pipe..I'd go with the ABS and take out all the clay tiles I could access . Backfill and tamp down dirt firmly, get a few bags of ready mix blend concrete (1/2 cu ft per bag) from Home Depot, mix in a wheelbarrow, lay er down and trowel flat.. None of this is hard, just time consuming. With the roots, you may keep having this same problem though. I'd get rid of the tree.

In article <hrqFi.151094$rX4.1784@pd7urf2no>, Rudy <NoSpam@no-onehome.net> wrote: [ ... ] >Since its terracotta/clay pipe, it isnt s sewer drain [ ... ] Bad assumption. Clay pipe was used for sewer runs for many years; one of the recent This Old House shows (Boston three-story) had a clay pipe drain that had settled and been penetrated by roots. Gary -- Gary Heston gheston@hiwaay.net http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/ Yoko Onos' former driver tried to extort $2M from her, threating to "release embarassing recordings...". What, he has a copy of her album?

http://www.rotorooter.com/residential/sewerlinereplacement.php Search for trenchless pipe repair... On google of course. Joe in Northern, NJ - V#8013-R Currently Riding The "Mother Ship" http://yunx.com/valk.htm Ride a motorcycle in or near NJ? http://tinyurl.com/5apkg

Rudy Canoza <rudy-canoza@excite.com> wrote: > Rod Speed wrote: >> "...child." > > Proof you're a rube. Never ever could bullshit its way out of a wet paper bag.

roundup kills by smothering the plant from the top. It only works when sprayed on the green part. s "Sammy bin Snoozin" <SammyBinSnoozin@REyahooMOVE.com> wrote in message news:psWIi.46$kk4.16@trnddc08... "Terryc" <newsfourspam-spam@woa.com.au> wrote in message news:fcv732$vpk$4@aioe.org... > Sammy bin Snoozin wrote: > > What if I flooded the drain with Roundup? Reckon that would kill > > anything that had roots in the drain? > > err, you are going to have to block the other end to flood it. > > we have rootox tabs here that you can drop in the bowl and flush last > thing at night or in morning (if everyone goes to work). > > P.S. if roundup works, it should kil the whole plant. roundup can be > less effective in high concentrations as too hardttake up.err, you are > going to have to block the other end to flood it. Yes, I was thinking of making a batch of diluted concentrate, putting an elbow pointing up at the outlet and pouring in the inlet until it fills the pipe. I've got about 20 feet of 4-inch pipe -- 12 gallons should be plenty. The cost of any root killer or coating materials would be minor compared to the cost of breaking up the concrete, replacing, refilling, etc.

"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com> wrote in news:5ljnmeF8dar7U1@mid.individual.net: >> A tree guy said to drill 1/2" holes into the stump, fill them with >> salt and keep them damp. > > Hell of a lot easier to just pour neat roundup onto the cut. > and of course roundup is so much more frugal than salt.

If you say so. (not) s "Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com> wrote in message news:5lji91F8it0gU1@mid.individual.net... . > > That is just plain wrong. If you have a tree which continues to > sprout from the stump when its cut off close to the ground, you > can kill whats in the ground by pouring neat roundup on the stump. > > >>

Whatever you think. I don't have to worry about stumps. I use diesel fuel. s "Ann" <nntpmail@epix.net> wrote in message news:pan.2007.09.22.11.29.51.531691@epix.net... > That's just plain wrong. Google on: roundup "fresh stump" >

What monsanto says, actually. You'll have to pardon us if we find them a tad more credible than you and our actual experience in spades. Steve Barker LT <ichasetrains@not.yahoo.com> wrote: > If you say so. > > (not) > > > s > > "Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com> wrote in message > news:5lji91F8it0gU1@mid.individual.net... > . >> >> That is just plain wrong. If you have a tree which continues to >> sprout from the stump when its cut off close to the ground, you >> can kill whats in the ground by pouring neat roundup on the stump.

I prefer the Strike force, compared to the Blast Match. I know the SF is two handed, but with two hands, the design makes more sense. Anyone tried those Aim N Flame things from the dollar store? They sure look convenient. -- . Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus http://www.lds.org/portal/site/LDSOrg http://www.mormon.org/mormonorg/eng/ .

Bringing up pouring it on stumps was irrelevant to the OP. s "Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com> wrote in message news:5lo2pjF92t5cU1@mid.individual.net... > Irrelevant to your claims about how roundup can be used. > > >> "Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com> wrote in message

"Sammy bin Snoozin" <SammyBinSnoozin@REyahooMOVE.com> wrote in message news:Hz6Oi.3589$44.3299@trnddc04... I got 3 quotes on the repair -- all are replacing the drain from inside the building to the clean-out connection, about 20 feet point to point. I'm going to get one more for bypassing the slab. $3000 - Rotorooter, includes tearing up concrete slab end-to-end, replacing straight run, re-pouring concrete slab and finishing $2400 - Indept plumber, same as above que significa "indept"? No es en mi diccionario. Significa "independent"? O inept? $1400 - Indept plumber, same except going out 45 degrees thru wall, bypassing concrete slab, angling back 135 degrees instead of 90 degrees and connecting to existing line, installing new clean-out downstream from existing clean-out. Just hire a Mexican, dude. (Posted sketch of 3rd way at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking) The last one makes more sense to me since everything will now be accessible, not being under concrete. One thing someone could give an opinion on - the slope from the inside connection point to the existing clean-out is about 4-inches for a 20-ft length of drain pipe. Is this enough for a straight run? How about if we do the 135 run, with three 135-deg turns. Sam